S-10CREWCAB.NET

rlrnr53 wrote:...Hope it lasts until I can get enough money to trade. Truck has been a good one, just time to move on, I'm getting too old to keep wallowing around under anything for long.

What's on the radar for the next rig?

Does it help any to tape two boxes together so they ship as one? Mine were shipped here like that.

Pretty cool piece of steel right there!

I would say any of the with the crab cap would work just fine

They will be a little tight in the 7mm wire looms, but they will go. A few stray seperators are nice to arrange things if you find some laying around.

Check out the thread on the swap that Approachmedium did. ECM, wiring, exhaust, headers, driveshaft, adapters, radiator, electric fans, etc...
I don't know all the details. JTR - Jaguars That Run has some S-10 conversion parts.

Yup, coppermine went AFK with Bennie and our .com version of this forum.

Plugs= Autolite Iridium XP
Wires= Taylor SpiroPro

My guess...V-8 swap with you providing the good engine $7,000-$10,000. Rear axle swap $1,000-$1500. Maybe half that on the axle if you provide a good ZR2 axle for the install. I have no idea from where you hail, but finding a shop to do it will be very hard. You want it done right and something like...

The 4L60E transmission was used on V-8 engines. All the 1500 trucks and even some Corvettes

A few upgrades and it should be fine. The rear axle, might survive. They are pretty flexy and not very durable. Might look for a ZR2 upgrade in the future.

I live in a desert climate and three years is about right here as long as it has not been overheated. I am betting I am pushing or have exceeded that right now

If the calipers removed don't have stuck slide pins, perhaps it was badly in need of a fluid change. The fluid takes on water over time and needs to be changed periodically. Thanks for the reminder...it has likely been too long for me too

Great intro! Glad to have you around

Watch'n. My DVD player won't accept disks anymore and I have been wondering what the best option for the future might be.

Coil failure?

Got fuel pressure?

That is a ground block. The crew cabs did not get a factory connector for trailer wiring. You can add a tee inline with the harness, or tap the wiring.

RobsZRinAR wrote:HJ - I much prefer feeling for nipples under the edge of a blanket but, I'll try again.

PG-13 , PG-13! (j/k) :lol:I thought it was protruded , not recessed. a mirror might help see under there, but I am sure trying to look will never work.

Feel around for the nipple just under the edge of the inner fender. You won't see it but you can feel it

We do have one member here who has done the swap. Hopefully he will drop in and answer some questions for you

I believe he does have a build thread on his truck, and who did the swap for him.

Deposits do degrade the performance with time. The owners manual recommendation is 100k miles IIRC. I replaced mine around then.

Mine squished the pinion shims. Seems like it may have made a whine noise too.

Shipping can be "do-able". My wheels traveled from Kentucky to Oregon. Box them with discards from the tire shop. Tape two boxes together.

There are a couple guys here that might be able to help. One had a damaged door , the other found one in a yard that was being parted out. Might be some help there indeed

GL

Have you checked LMCtruck.com ?

Don't know many from Mountain Home, ID, but I am lousy with names. I have been across the river in Oregon most of my life. I recognize most of the natives

Just there to keep the squirrels quiet inside

Wow, great intro!

I got excited to see someone in my neighborhood when I saw Mountain Home.....then I saw AR instead of ID

Guess not even close.

Welcome aboard

Heck of a way to get a crew cab, not recommended I bet. Welcome aboard

_STUCKY wrote:I was actually thinking exactly that after I last posted. HJ, any reason I can't just plug it?...

You bet! ...Or better yet follow it to the source and cap it there eliminating the potential to suck transfercase fluid into the system

You will no longer have a need for that function.

Yep, it goes to the transfercase vacuum switch

. Three lines on that switch. Vacuum, vent and your line to the actuator.

If you repace the whole axle assembly, try hard to find a ZR2 axle, if you have the 3.73 gear set. That is a huge improvement.
Water would be coming from the axle vent tube and is very difficult to remove. Be sure to get it far away from the bed gap.

Feel for a nipple just under the lip of that fender. That is to the vacuum reservoir and the heart of your problem

Ok, that is the front differential switch. It is electrical and lets you know when the collar has shifted engaging the front axle. The transfercase switch is a vacuum switch on the transfercase. That hissing is a vacuum leak and probably why you do not develop enough vacuum to shift the front axle. ...

No oil pressure on it that I see. Haven't been using it much since my Bully Dog does most of the same stuff. I keep it around in case I need to diagnose stuff the bullydog will not do

Have you replaced the transfercase switch? If not read the sticky. Next check your vacuum lines behind the brake booster for dry rot. While there check to see if the line to the reservoir is connected in the left fender. All that good? Disconnect both battery cables wait three minutes and connect th...

Looks pretty cool. I have been using an ELM37 and Torque (free app). Works well

The shackles and towing don't mix. Hobie's shifted and rubbed the driveshaft on the fuel tank skid. The 2" body lift has many advantages for these trucks.

Check the ground wire at the frame. I believe it is the one attached to the bumper bracket bolt.

Very nice looking truck in that snow shot!

HJ, is that a 96ish land cruiser? Girlfriend wants an suv, but claims those are "too old". Silly woman... That is the legendary "White TLC" , owned by Jack of 4wdTrips.net Awesome rig. Not sure of the year, but I am sure it is on his website or forum somewhere. It might even be for sale. It has bee...

Oh it will affect the center of gravity. How much and if it will be tolerable for what you do and where you go will likely be for you to decide. I can say that there are many that travel with similar gear up top. http://www.4wdtrips.net/photogallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_IMGP0373.JPG http://w...

Does the rack manufacturer have a rating?

We have become very accustomed to sleeping off the ground. The small bed is usually pretty full with stuff. Chuck had some grating material attached to his rack that mad a good summer sleeping platform. I'd be very tempted to look at a RTT for the back of your rack if the kayaks would work up front....

Looks awesome. Kayaks sounds like fun. Any plans for a deck and sleep up there? I have a friend that used the "Turkey mats". Sort of a synthetic grate material. That was a very long time ago now.

I don't see your location in your profile. What part of the world do you live / frequent?

Cool roof / ladder / construction rack. First long rack I have seen like that. Looks like it is "pinned"? Just a two piece design, or is there some adjustablity? What are you hauling up there?

... I think the rough country kit dose look like a good set up I'm considering it for my truck like if it wasent for the control arms to fix the alignment It would be worthless in my openion. .... The upper a-arms do make it possible to set the alignment with the keys cranked way up. Stock upper ar...

I know one who swapped to the Bravada grille

Boise springworks is still a good option for a leaf spring upgrade. Check to see if you have a local builder. Local is always good. There is a pretty good thread about adding leaves. Many of the kits don't match our spring pack. Thy can also be harsh and prone to breakage. If this rough country kit ...

which seller did you use?

The wife's Malibu Maxx needs a new fob. Who / where would you recommend? (link) Ebay? Amazon? Local dealer?

Welcome. There are still a few of us around. Walt plans to keep us going for a while :) As with anything on the internet, if you value it, back it up :) The site has now been alive three times longer than these trucks were built. We are on the third generation of owners in many cases. Many of us hav...

A stack of pretty nice upgrades for someone

Save the stops! Someone needs them!

Ah, ok...on the same page now. Wheel sensors , checked. Speed sensors included. Make sure they are the same if you replaced only one. Tire sizes the same. Bleed the system. No way for the user to cycle the abs system during the bleed, so do as best you can to make sure the fluid is clean and bled. W...

The abs system activating would be a buzzing feel in the pedal when applied. You say you hear a "mooing". Could it be a vacuum booster sound?

Is your vacuum system OK? No fluid in the system? Vacuum reservoir attached?

A little "mad money" came my way so I thought I'd try out HID projector headlamps -

Swapping to the bigger ZR2 rear is a huge upgrade. Well worth the investment. The stock rear is small and flexy. I have pinion shim problems. When I tore it down the choice to upgrade was easy. Don't waste money upgrading the stock rear. Go bigger and better.

The roof rack that went on the crews stock was, as far as I know, a cut down 2 door blazer roof rack. Maybe Brule will chime in on what he used. I think he has a thread somewhere around here on it. ... I believe you are right. I used a Bravada rack on my S-10. The Avalanche got a Suburban rack. I s...

My thought is to use a master cylinder that matches the wheel cylinders , or calipers the best. The reservoir of fluid for the calipers may be larger than that of the wheel cylinders if drum brakes are used. Volume enough not to run dry before the brakes reach their wear limit.

It is usually best to use a master cylinder that matches the brakes. The volumes are matched to the wheel cylinders, or calipers better. The proportioning valve will likely need to be adjustable to provide optimal performance. Weight variance tire sizes, etc. all play a part in the proper proportion...

Where do you plan to install it? I would suggest some experimentation. I had lights on top, but the glare on the hood is horrible. Sure they are cool looking and at first they seem good. After the rose color glasses come off, not so much. That said, they can work. You need to mount them far enough b...

You got great service out of the original. :fingers crossed: the replacement will serve you as well.

Dang...salt really kills over there. Thank goodness for the high desert of Eastern Oregon. We just mummify stuff

Woo Hoo

Productive day!

Pretty sure he is looking for the factory look with the markings

In case you did not see it: Tow/Haul mod page

That may make finding a used door easier. Did your glass survive?

Mine came out of a Bravada probably 1999-2004?

Merged the topics. Great find! Those may indeed be the F150 flares. BIG coverage. The fronts look a little tipped out at the back. I think I would have moved the back side in more to square them up with the body. The back looks pretty good. They are very round in the wheel well. More trimming? Maybe...

car-part.com lists yards close to you and by price. Great resource to find used parts. The front doors from a Blazer may be the same as the crew cab? Probably a safer bet to find crew cab doors though.
Are yours a total loss or are the interior panels OK?

Those do look good. Same front as the Skidz Flares. Fit for the Isuzu bed too. Nice. Lots of good accessories over there. I really wanted to get the bull bar and light bar. Tried for quite a while, but never did find a way. We had one or two members, but they disappeared pretty quickly

Have you tried searching : car-part.com ?

Great resource.

Welcome to the forum

Check out the page: Bushwacker rear flares It took quite a bit to get the rear flares to fit. They are also pretty small even for out 31" stock wheel well opening. http://www.s-10crewcab.net/HenryJ/lrsflare.jpg See how those upper inside corners are down a little. They were not big enough to push up...

Man, what a bummer. What number you going after next?

Bummer. Sounds like a mismatch?

Did you test the voltage of the button battery in the remote?

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