S-10CREWCAB.NET

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Condolences Reed. You sure do have trouble with that waterfowl. Make sure you keep em down your way. I can get in enough trouble without help from any of them. lol

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You may have air trapped in the cooling system. This can cause the gurgling/bubbling sounds in the heater core/system. I am unsure but think it may be possible to have a core leak out through the evaporator drain tube under the pass side firewall. Most fluid in vacuum system sounds originate in or n...

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What kind of step bars are those? Stock ZR5 bars. VERY similar to the Westin bars I had on my truck till they rotted out and I removed and threw them away. My only complaint other than they died quickly was the fact that in mud they were only good at getting your pant-legs muddy when getting in and...

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JaVeRo wrote:If you don't have an external transmission cooler, You need one. I am convinced that has a lot to do with the life of a transmission. Be sure to flush the cooler lines when you replace the transmission.

James

X2!

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There can be several causes for the flashing light and high fuel consumption. You need to get the codes read to know a direction to proceed. I have even had this problem with a cracked/broken front y-pipe letting too much oxygen into the exhaust and throwing the O2 calibrations off not to mention ma...

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Nice write-up and pics. I especially enjoyed the underwater pics. Something different.

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One of the main reasons most car makers have gone away from the flex fans is liability. Blade flying off and cutting off limbs etc not pretty. Other than that drawback I too liked the performance and usage of the flexies. Always made me nervous to be anywhere in line with them while running particul...

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Every time I start to notice my fan noise becoming louder I clean out the bugs etc from the radiator and condenser (and in between both). Generally takes care of the situation.

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My truck runs "happy" with all 3 sensors Bosch. Not saying they can't fail but I have not experienced any more problems with them than oem or any other for that matter. My .02 worth. I have also gotten along fine with Borg Warner as well.

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If ya can get him to part with pieces for your crew I'd friendly up to him even if he is a bit "odd".

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If you have a scan gauge II check the trans temps under load on the road warmed up. Just a shot in the dark but perhaps overheating?? Would also perhaps explain the erratic hot fluid level??

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F9K9 wrote:
rlrnr53 wrote:They should be starting south soon.
Oh great! They're following me to Houston.

Hey Reed, I'd be plaguing ya too if ya did an Elmer on me like that too!

This an admission of first strike guilt?

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Where was this 7 years ago when the fuel tank in my suburban cracked a leak? LOL oh well.

Various J-B weld products have been around for many years. I have been using them for over 30yrs myself.

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Have replaced the right side twice. After removing the cv shaft I used a small chisel to carefully work around the seal to extension area till the seal came out. Re-installation is a little hard what with having to work around the seal with a hammer or driver with the stub shaft in the way partially...

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Just got my 3rd reminder card last week for my 01.

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Why not just use good quality hose clamps? They work better, are much stronger, and can be reused! I like to use the stainless steel embossed hose clamps because they can handle more torque without stripping, have rolled edges to protect the rubber from cuts, and ss lasts forever. I have used end c...

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Autozone calls them cv joint clamps. They show PN 614-064 which is a pack of 5 (Dorman) that fit my 2001 for $17.99. I have purchased individual clamps from my local bumper to bumper store for 2-3 bucks apiece. I have also tried the motormite clamp they list and did not like it and found it ineffect...

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Thanks for the replies. I think the bands you are talking about jav are like Yamaha use. I really don't see how that kd 3955 tool would work any better than a pair of pliers or wire cutters? Even if it did, I don't see how it would get tight? Seems like this took is what I really need? http://img.t...

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Here's the link to the catalog page http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cst/full.aspx?Page=125 Interesting that the tank listed for the 00-01 says 18.5 gal. This might/might not fit my 01 as it has a 20.5 gal tank stock and before anybody tries to argue this as has been done before it is stated in the...

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Tried E-Bay?? Perhaps this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Tank-G ... d4&vxp=mtr Says it fits 01 ZR5 crew cab. If not that one I found numerous others through a little searching of links they provided such as: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0 ... tank&rt=nc Should find one new or used t...

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Tried E-Bay?? Perhaps this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Tank-Gas-Silver-S10-Pickup-Chevy-Chevrolet-S-10-2001-2000-99-98-97-96-/370635700180?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564b9bf7d4&vxp=mtr Says it fits 01 ZR5 crew cab. If not that one I found numerous others through a littl...

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I use K-D tools #3955 which is designed for these clamps. It compresses the center of the band bulge down while clinching the diameter smaller at the same time. I have owned one for many years and it has served me well. It can be found on page 48 of their catalog and on page 49 there is also a compl...

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Last (and only) time I took my tank down I removed the front tank mount bracket as well as dropping the driveshaft. Perhaps not necessary but was certainly easier IMOP.

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I have used both Carter and Airtex in the past. If you enjoy changing pumps (I don't) they are for you. Both junk IMOP. Go with delphi or AC or you will regret it. While they too can fail the rate is far less for them.

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Yeah I ain't no small guy either and replacing the cabin filter in the wife's 98 park avenue was a real pain. :x I hurt in places I forgot I had after doing that job. Funny thing about it I had the oem manual, haynes manual, and looked online and even inquired at a couple shops and none could tell m...

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I've tried the split repair boots on a couple different vehicles. Both screwed and glued together types. Waste of time in my opinion. All failed in short order.

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I while back I too had lean noticeable at the rear. A check of the frame height to the ground in the front revealed one side sagging a bit. Leveled the front via torsion bar adjustment which also corrected the afore mentioned lean. At least it's not visible now as it was before.

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I have experienced a vibration like you describe on a vehicle other than my CC. Ended up being an inner CV joint. In my case also there was no visible damage. When I removed the CV shaft and did hand manual inspection the inner joint had failed and allowed the shaft to run out of true and vibrate li...

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Still running my 1" rear spacers on both rear wheels. No problems or issues. I have the hub centric spacers which I bought and installed in Dec 07. Got em on e-bay.

Just an fyi most all of my driving since installation has been on very rough country roads here locally in bad weather.

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:surrender: I stand corrected HJ. I Was having a brain fart on the ratio. It is 3.42 (GU6) and further check of the rpo codes revealed, even though the paperwork doesn't indicate it, it was indeed ordered with QEB tire option. :?: Perhaps a dealer selection??? as the previous owner indicated he did ...

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Not to upset folks here but my truck came stock with 235x75x15 tires and is NOT part of an off road package. In addition it has 3.54 gearing also stock. I am the 2nd owner and was given the original window stickers by the first owner whom I am acquainted with. I have also read and decoded the rpo co...

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My 01 came with 235x75x15 tires as stock so I would see no problem with them on your rig. Only thing I ever noticed is on extreme articulation with aggressive square lugged tires the inner fender lip will catch on the lugs during bottom-out situations. I have cranked my T-bars slightly to mainly lev...

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Brule, I know you are not that old or naive!

Clever turn of an acronym though. Kudos for forethought.

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I have an alternate suggestion to HJ's. Take a spray bottle of water and with the engine running spray small areas of the wires and coil till you hit an area that either makes the miss solid or causes the engine to die. I once found a cracked coil tower that was not visible using this method. You do...

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I would be highly suspicious of the cap and rotor. I went through a bad cap situation that was not visible or provable to the eye or the scanner. Ended up being shorted internally between some of the terminals of the cap itself. I even cut it apart trying to find the track unsuccessfully. Replaced w...

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I'm still stickin with my MAXX bats from Wallyworld. I always get the biggest and baddest they offer with the longest warranty. Has served me well for many years.

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I guess Horsehammerr isn't the only "stubborn" one here. My crew is paid for, taxes are low, insurance is reasonable, mileage is decent, and, most importantly, it does what I want/need it to do. Needless to say I have no short term plans to replace it. Not that I'm so attached to it but I have learn...

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U1041???? Haven't heard of that one before. My manual lists B, C, and P codes but no U codes. The last time I had a no start condition with my cc it was cap/rotor problem. They were near new but obviously shorting out cylinder to cylinder as the engine acted like the cap was wet and cross-firing. Re...

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Most reputable radiator shops do not recommend trying to remove and replace tanks on aluminum core radiators for a good reason other than the seal viability although that's an additional consideration. The problem is once un-clamped the tabs on the radiator are weakened and will not clamp back down ...

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Good! Pages are loading noticeably faster without the snow.

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I have done numerous tests with the last 10 or more vehicles I've owned. In ALL cases the across the board MPG loss is a consistent 8% on 10% ethanol blend gasoline. I've also tried numerous times to run Premium Regular and the MPG gains have always been insufficient to offset the increase in price ...

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I describe the noise heard when abs is active as a pulsing-low-pitched-sqwonking noise. I run with my under hood abs fuse pulled all the time. Brakes are much more dependable and longer lived in my application. I completely disagree with Brule on the better braking in snow and ice situations. I have...

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Did not help the body of the message on my end. Only the bracketed size and color are changed.

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I'm now messing with the font color and size in post to see any difference. Changing settings in user controls yielded no joy.

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I changed the font size and color in my controls. Presently the only negative for me is the gray on black of the previously posted messages. Quick reply font size and color are fine.

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I should add I did exit the site and do a system info dump as well as browser history dump prior to the last post and had the noted experience.

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It is better but the main problem I am having is the what appears to be gray on black body of the posts. I notice the contrast is better when I am posting but not as good when reading posted messages. I can't read the words without extreme effort and foreknowledge that are in my own sig line.

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It's been my experience with batteries as well as shocks and certain other automotive components they all tend to be built to the specs of the company that intends to sell them. Sometimes that's good others not so much. The diehards I spoke of were of the older vintages. I have not used the new plat...

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Try switching to Art Elegance Black YELLOW in your profile settings, and see what you think. :) Some of the image borders still need a little work through. Mostly the buttons. Went to profile settings and was unable to find this setting you speak of. The current color scheme finds me 6" away from t...

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I used to run diehard but they let me down too many times. Have had very little trouble with wallyworld batteries but it should be noted I always buy the biggest that will fit with the longest warranty they have. Never ran optimas and from what I see here I didn't miss much. Years ago Motorcraft had...

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Don't care for this format either. Harder to read. Probably cause I'm an "old" guy.

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Ummmm, yeah I liked the previous format much better as well.

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Sorry about your friend. Maybe you need to use reverse-psychology on them ducks. Get a duck call and camo outfit and maybe a lab. start calling em with intent to kill and eat. They'll probably flock away from you in droves.

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I'm tellin ya man. You gotta make that location felonious-duck proof. You may think they haven't found you but sounds like they've just gotten sneaky.

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Can't speak to the grader but I've used it in tractor and truck radiators and driven them with it in there. No bubbles with the system closed in all cases I encountered. Not disagreeing with your dishwasher soap idea just saying I've had good success with the dawn method.

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+1 on the dawn. Amazing stuff!

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There is one vacuum switch on the t-case for the front axle actuator and one electric switch as an integral part of the encoder motor for changing modes between 2-4hi and 4lo. I know of no others on the t-case. There are two others associated with that shift system but they are located on the dash (...

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Took a vacation and gave mine a few days off duty.

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Sorry Wolf I do not have the number for the shield anymore. Probably thrown out last time I purged old papers. It would be rather easy to make your own. The shield is plastic and only about .050" thick. The "retaining bold" you see pictured in the catalog is in reality a plastic push-center retainer...

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I bought one for my truck from LMC truck as it did not have one when I bought it.

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Ooops I forgot you have a reverse duck blinder (garage). Don't eat any beans they might think it's a call to come feed. hee hee hee

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Given your duck problems Reed you most likely would've drilled your foot with the vice grip/drill combo.

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Just did a quick check online at one of the suppliers I use. (onlinetires.com) Set of 4 on sale right now total with shipping to your zip code $613.39. I know that's a little over what you said but if you can spring for it worth it IMO.

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My preference BFG AT KO's 235x75x15 size. Wear well not too noisy, good overall traction, and good looks on the truck. JMO I'm on my second set currently.

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Yes Lonewolf4 those quotes are from some old posts and threads. I have, for the most part, solved my problems with the addition of 1" rear wheel spacers, pulled ABS fuse, and 1/64th of an inch shortening of the brake booster rod. The spacers changed where the debris is dumped and saves the boots on ...

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If you have ABS doubts just pull the large fuse in the fuse center under the hood. This will de-activate the electrical part of the system and turn on both the brake and ABS lights. If your brakes improve significantly you're onto the problem. If not at least you've eliminated one.

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After considerable non ABS driving with my truck (ABS fuse pulled) I have determined for my usage this is the only way to go. Brake wear is much more uniform, even, more durable, and I don't "roll through" desired stops anymore. I don't think my problem was a proportioning one wynred. Just simply th...

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Bingo! You got er Bill.

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According to my oem manual the individual valving you speak of is part of the ABS computer which your post says was replaced. It would have to be since the ABS system is capable of applying and releasing individual brakes separate from each other. As far as I can tell there is no other valving in th...

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Excellent explanation HJ! Nothing for me to add at this point.

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When the shift fork moves (by way of the vacuum actuator) in the front axle it triggers the switch located there on the front axle which is supposed to indicate to the shift buttons (blinking lights) that the shift has been completed. If the lights are working properly on the indicators the only way...

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Been reading through this thread and gotta ask. Was the truck running while you were checking for engagement of the front wheels? Not being sarcastic. Just couldn't tell from the posts. If not it has to be for the vacuum to engage the actuator and subsequently the cable and shift collar. If it was r...

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Broke a line on rear axle,replaced,bled. OK. Rear brakes would randomly lock up after this point. This is where the problem originated,then complicated by- Replacing the calipers I could not get one to stop leaking. Making bleeding impossible. Took it to a garage close to home. They got it to stop ...

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Couldn't do that on mine. I tried and there was not enough room.

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Keep an eye to the voltmeter as well to make sure voltage doesn't slowly decline over time. This could indicate either a failing battery or an alternator problem in the making.

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